French Friday: Rue Mouffetard

I did not think my series on French markets complete without mentioning Rue Mouffetard.

Situated in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, Rue Mouffetard can trace its origins to the Medieval time period. This area is commonly known as the Latin Quarter, in reference to the ancient language spoken among the intellectuals of the Sorbonne. In the present time, the Latin Quarter is popular among university students and young millennials.

French Friday: Rue Montorgueil

Last week we visited Rue Cler, an open air market near the Eiffel Tower.

This week we will visit Rue Montorgueil, another market, about a ten minute walk from the Pompidou Museum.

While it is easy to view metropolitan cities as one large mass, they are really divided into small neighborhoods, each with its own personality, vibe, and feel. This is clearly evident in the Paris market areas. The same basic storefronts line the streets - the boulangerie, patisserie, fromagerie, fresh fruit stands, etc. - but each neighborhood shop exhibits a unique character.

French Friday: Rue Cler

As I mentioned last week, I adore the open air markets of Paris. I think because it is a remnant of Old World charm in the midst of a modern cosmopolitan city.

Some year I hope to work my way through Paris visiting many of the neighborhood markets featured in this book. I would like to experience each market's own distinct flavor and unique offering of fresh food and household supplies.

On my last trip to Paris I did manage to visit two markets -  Rue Cler and Rue Montorgueil - which will be the subject of the next two French Friday posts.

French Friday: Les Bouquinistes

Setting up for the day

 I adore Paris for its open air markets, and les bouquinistes are like open air markets for used books: simply paradise for this bibliophile!

These booksellers have been a part of the Parisian landscape almost as long as the invention of the printing press . They first peddled their wares in wheelbarrows, but in the late 1800s the government granted the bouquinistes permanent legal status. Today the iconic dark green metal boxes line the sidewalks on both sides of the Seine near Notre Dame.

French Friday: Bouche de Noel (1)

 Apparently there are many variations of the Yule Log tradition.

Its history seems rooted in the Nordic culture. The ashes of the previous yule log were kept through the year to ward off house fires. Then, on Christmas Eve night, a new yule log would be placed in the fireplace and lit by those same ashes.

The log burned for twelve solid hours while watchers sipped cider, mulled wine or other beverages and told ghost stories and reminisced about old memories.

French Friday: Place du Tertre

I suppose the greatest inspiration for First Impressionism came from my visit to the Place du Tertre in 2006.

We first toured Sacre-Coeur on the top of the hill. Then we made our way through the small winding streets of Montmartre to the square in the center of the village. Artists with their easels lined its perimeter, some offering to paint portraits or caricatures, others showcasing their original art of iconic Parisian sights.

While many consider this spot the heart of tourism, I see a Paris of yesteryear.  Struggling artists often made Montmartre their home. Painters like Degas and Cassatt in the late nineteenth century, and artists like Picasso and Dali during the early twentieth century.

French Friday: Montmartre

Sacre-Coeur

My first visit to Montmartre was in 2006 during a brief stay in Paris. Prior to this trip, I knew nothing about Montmartre except for the iconic white basilica at the top of the hill. After spending a couple of hours in this quaint neighborhood, I fell in love. Five years later I returned to live here for two short, glorious weeks.

The first point of interest as you venture into the area is the elevation. While the narrow roads slightly incline as they wind their way through the 18th arrondissement, visitors must be in good shape to hike to the top. A funicular provides effortless travel up and down (for the cost of a metro ticket), but there is a certain pride and satisfaction in conquering all those steps.

French Friday: Musee d'Orsay

While the Louvre is THE museum to see in Paris, for centuries housing some of the world's most valuable artwork, I prefer the Musee d'Orsay.

Originally built as a train station, the building was almost demolished in 1970 in favor of yet another Parisian hotel. Fortunately the station was saved and converted into a premier museum that now houses a vast collection of French Impressionist art.

The museum runs parallel to the Seine, and its twin clock towers, coupled with the high arch windows, makes the exterior as much a work of art as the masterpieces contained within.

French Friday: Beaujolais Nouveau

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrive!

The third Thursday of November is the official release of this fruity red wine.

Beaujolais Nouveau is made from Gamay grapes grown around Lyon, France. The grapes are harvested, fermented a short time (typically six weeks or so), and then shipped around the world.

Technically, the wine is not sold until 12:01am on the official date, creating quite a buzz of excitement for those who consider this a traditional start to the holiday season. I managed to score two bottles on Tuesday and quickly smuggled the contraband into the house before the wine police arrived.

French Friday: First Impressionism

In 2010 I had an idea for a book.

A young American girl (Phoebe Cox) and her family are vacationing in France. While viewing artwork at the Musee d'Orsay, she finds herself transported to Paris, circa 1880.  Can the Impressionists help her find her way back to the 21st Century?

That was the gist of my idea. I had nothing else.

So for three years I researched. I explored the Impressionists, their paintings, and the time period. Slowly a story began to emerge.

Rehearsal on Stage would transport Phoebe to the past, and she is convinced another Degas painting is the secret to finding her way back home.

This would form the structure of my novel. Each chapter title would be the name of a famous Impressionist painting, and would some way feature in the storyline. While many of the paintings are by Degas, several are by other master artists of the time: Cassatt, Renoir, Monet, and Caillebotte.

French Friday: Paris Picture Books

As many of you know, I am currently writing a Middle Grade novel. I completed the draft during NaNoWriMo 2013, but have done little work since.

Part of my struggle is the story's conflict - or lack of conflict, as the case may be. Since I spend most of my life trying to avoid difficulty, it is not easy for me to manufacture intentional struggles for my protagonist. However, a plot devoid of tension is not a story worth reading.

I definitely have work to do and decided to do a bit of research to help with the process.

I went the library and checked-out several picture books about Paris. I wanted to learn how children's writers develop conflict for their characters, in the hopes of inspiring me to create conflict for mine. While I found a dozen or more books to read, these few captured my attention both as a textbook and a storybook.

Emma in Paris by Claire Frossard. Emma is a sparrow from New York City who travels across the pond to visit family in Paris. The first task is to find her cousin's apartment, but that proves difficult when she doesn't know the language. After purchasing a French-English dictionary, she still has trouble finding anyone who knows the way. She finally meets a cat who can help, but Emma isn't sure whether to trust her or not. This is a sweet story that is suitable for young children, and it proved beneficial as a textbook as well.

A Walk in Paris by Salvatore Rubbino. A sweet story about a young girl and her grandfather as they wander the streets of Paris. More of a travel guide than a narrative, the main text is accompanied by additional historical footnotes. There is a wealth of information in this short book, making it great for older children who wish to learn more about Paris, as well as younger children who enjoy vivid pictures and simple story lines.

Minette's Feast by Susanna Reich. This is really the story of Julia during her early years in Paris, as told through the eyes of her adopted cat, Minette. Readers get a glimpse of Julia Child as she learns to perfect French cooking, even though her cat would much prefer catching a mouse for dinner. A great story for any Francophile or budding gourmet.

Chasing Degas by Eva Montanari. A young ballerina discovers M. Degas mistook her ballet bag for his paint case. She must find him before the evening performance, or she will not be allowed on stage. This is my favorite book of the group, probably because it closely relates to the subject matter of my own novel. I love how the ballerina runs into several Impressionist painters while chasing Degas through the streets of Paris.

Madame Martine by Sarah S. Brannen. Madame Martine loves routine... and is not a fan of the Eiffel Tower. It is nothing but a tourist trap, according to her. But one day her pet dog runs away and leads her up to the top of the tower where she discovers the beautiful view. Now she adjusts her weekly routine to include a visit to this iconic sight. I adored this book and Madame Martine. I am anxious to read the second book in the series, Madame Martine Breaks the Rules.

Charlotte in Paris by Joan MacPhail Knight. Charlotte is a young girl living in Giverny at the time Monet painted his famous water lilies. It is told in diary form over a nine month period. The text is accompanied by whimsical illustrations, renditions of famous paintings, and old photographs of the time period, which gives it the look of an art journal. Because there is so much text as compared to the pictures, I would recommend this sweet educational story for children older than pre-schoolers.

I enjoyed my wanderings through the picture book section of the library - and look forward to sharing a few of these stories with my four-year-old granddaughter.

My next lesson will be to read a few early-chapter books set in Paris to help me further hone my writing skills.

French Friday: The Tower Redeemed

From the age of eight, I have dreamed of living in Paris.

I started learning French in second grade, the same year a family friend returned from his junior year abroad in France. I adored looking at his post cards and photographs and vowed that one day I would see these glorious sights, especially the Eiffel Tower, for myself.

In 1977 my dream came true.

Our high school offered an exchange program with a high school in Arcachon, France. We would travel to their home town for three weeks (with a brief side trip to Paris) and the next month they would visit us in Connecticut.

On a cold February afternoon the charter bus pulled up beside the Trocadero platform. We quickly disembarked. It was drizzling rain, but we didn't care. This was the Eiffel Tower!

My friend handed me her camera - a Kodak instamatic - and asked if I would take her picture. She would then reciprocate. Of course I agreed.

Jen ran ahead to pose as I made sure the camera was ready to go. Behind me I thought I heard someone ask, You like? You like? but I ignored the voice. Who would be talking to me?

Jen was ready. I lifted the camera to my face.

You like? You like? This time the voice was louder - and closer.

I snapped the picture and then heard again. You like? You like?

A bit agitated, I turned around to see who was talking so loudly. And there, dressed in only an overcoat, open wide ... was an old man wearing a black beret, a sleazy smile,  and asking me once again if I liked.

I didn't know what to do. I was a naive seventeen-year-old girl. I ran straight to the bus and sat down. Fortunately no one asked why I was the first one to return. I was too embarrassed to share the experience with anyone.

I never got my picture in front of the tower. And quite frankly, I never cared if I saw the Tower again.

Fast forward to July, 2006 --- nearly thirty years later!

I had scheduled my first group tour to Europe and qualified for a leader training session in Paris. We were there only two days, but I was determined to see as much of the city as I could - including the Tower.

I must admit I was a bit nervous walking from the Metro station to Trocadero Square. Although the weather was warm and no one wore an overcoat, I still maintained a keen awareness of all those around me.

A fellow teacher asked if I would take her picture. She would then reciprocate. Talk about deja vu!

I lifted the camera to my face, half expecting to hear You like? You like? behind me. But the only voices I heard were fellow tourists, as excited to see The Eiffel Tower as I was.

I finally had my picture taken with the Iron Lady - and we made amends.

Now look at her fondly instead of disdain. She has become a close intimate friend whom I must visit anytime I'm in town. No matter where I am in the city, I look for her silhouette, and she always brings a smile to my face.

I enjoy her company in the daytime, sitting on a park bench sharing my lunch with her -- and I enjoy her in the evening as she illuminates the City of Lights. At the top of each hour her lights twinkle, and for those few brief  moments, she is magical.

French Friday: Lisette's List

Lisette's List

by Susan Vreeland

published by Random House

copyright 2014

This is the final post of Paris in July, 2015, and I think the following quote from this fabulous novel is quite fitting:

In Paris, one's home is in cafes, in squares, on bridges, don't you think? They allow us to lay claim to the city.     (page 317) 

Ah.... c'est magnifique.

Let me start off by saying, I adore Susan Vreeland. 

Luncheon of the Boating Party (reviewed here) perfectly captures the life of several French Impressionists - or at least as I envision they must have lived. And Life Studies (reviewed here) is the first collection of short stories I have read from start to finish.

So it is no surprise that this novel completely captivated me.

The time period is a bit later than Impressionist Paris, although several of those painters, particularly the artwork of Cezanne and Pissarro, feature prominently in the story. 

The novel spans about a decade, from 1937 to 1948, focusing on World War II and Germany's desire to steal and/or destroy the art masterpieces of Europe.

Brief Overview:

Lisette first leaves her beloved Paris to venture south to care for her husband's invalid grandfather, Pascal. While she desires to help in any way she can, she finds the Provincial town to be old-fashioned and dull. She can hardly wait to return to Paris.

She discovers, however, that in his youth, Pascal sold pigment paint from the nearby ochre mines to the artist shops in Paris, as well as made frames for the canvases. He often bartered with the artists: his paint or talent in exchange for one of their paintings. In the end, he acquired seven masterpieces.

One of my favorite quotes from this first section of novel:

Pascal didn't complain when he felt nausea or pain. He simply said, "Bring me the third Pissarro" or "I want to see the still life," and I knew he wished to lose himself in a painting. I suspected that his absorbed study, his searching for something in each painting he had not noticed before, allowed him to rise about discomfort. 

... When I held up Pissarro's red roofs, the largest painting, Pascal murmured, "Such a pretty  orchard. You know, those blogs of paint protruding from the canvas, they catch light on their upper edges and create small shadows beneath them. That's not an accident, Lisette. That's genius." 

Even in this he was teaching me to notice details. But beyond that, he was saying good-bye to each of his paintings.     (pages 76-77)

This is why I adore Ms. Vreeland. She not only tells a compelling story - She not only writes in beautiful prose - But she teaches valuable art appreciation lessons that I failed to learn in school. After reading this passage, I want to visit our local museum and practice this skill of looking in detail at the painting. I want to love paintings as much as Pascal.

Other Lessons:

I am ashamed to admit that I had little previous knowledge about the Nazi's total disregard for and destruction of European masterpieces. Ms. Vreeland does not spend too much time on this subject, but she opened my eyes and expanded my desire to learn more. 

Oh, Lisette, the stream of trucks arriving at the Louvre and the Jeu de Paume to deliver paintings from across France to be sorted, sold or destroyed, other trucks leaving with paintings to be loaded into freight cars headed for Germany. My sister and I stood helpless and horrified, watching paintings by Klee, Ernst, Picasso, Leger, so many, go up in flames in the garden of the Jeu de Paume. Without its art, Paris, all of France, would never be the same.

One of the passages that left a lasting impression involved my favorite sculpture, Winged Victory:

I insisted that we climb the long Daru staircase in the Louvre, pausing at each step to appreciate the full marble glory of Nike of Samothrace, winged and victorious. Her commanding presence, well over three meters high and set on a tall pedestal, demanded that we look up in adoration. I was certain I felt the wind ruffling her gown. 

"What a victory it was to remove that for hiding. ... September third, the same day de Gaulle declared war. We volunteers gathered to watch, holding our breaths as she was lowered down the steps on runners and held upright by ropes. More than twenty centuries old, she is. It does me good to see her back in her rightful place, undamaged."     (pages 332-333)

As I read this passage I was immediately transported back to my visit to the Louvre in 2011. Didn't she perfectly capture the elements of this sculpture? Can you imagine the skill it took to safely lower her into hiding? I agree with Maxim, it is indeed good to see her back in her rightful place, undamaged.

There are so many other quotes I could share with you... or Lisette's List of 17 Hungers and Vows (essentially, the bucket list she creates to honors those she loves), but then I fear I would rob you of the opportunity to read this lovely historical novel for yourself.

Please do. You will not be disappointed.

* This post is a part of the Paris-in-July meme, hosted by Tamara of Thyme-for-Tea. Please visit her website for links to more French-inspired posts.

French Friday: Paris Plage

I discovered this marvelous Parisian tradition quite by accident.

I was on a two-day whirlwind tour of Paris in July, 2011, and we happened to take a ride on the Bateaux Mouches. This was my second time to travel along the Seine (the first being in 1977 on a high school exchange program), and while I never tire of the Parisian landmarks, I thought I knew what to expect. That was not the case.

The first Paris Plage (singular) dates back to 2002 when Bertrand Delanoe decided to provide a convenient escape for Parisians who could not leave the city on holiday. It began on the right bank of the Seine (Rive Doit) but in 2006 grew to include the left side as well (Rive Gauche). Now Paris Plages (plural) is considered a destination location and gives new meaning to the term "staycation"

I adore everything about this new tradition.

The colorful umbrellas and coordinated chaise lounges immediately connote images of Parisian style.  Families with young children mingle with millennials and co-eds. Relaxation is evident, and the hustle and bustle of the big city is almost non-existent by the water's edge.

One look at this photo and one would guess St Tropez... not Paris.

I'm not sure how much sand is trucked in for this event, but it must be TONS. Thousands take part in the festivities each day, but the city does an amazing job of keeping everything pristine clean.  Each morning the chairs are neatly arranged, and the sand is freshly grated.

While most visitors prefer to sunbathe and relax under the temporary Palm trees, there are activities to keep the young - and young at heart - engaged. There are some true sandcastle artists, and we all enjoyed the fruits of their labor.

Some creators took a more classic approach - like the one shown here.

Others were more whimsical, like the Mickey and Minnie Mouse characters in front of Cinderella's castle.

And then of course, there were the old childhood favorites, made with various sizes of plastic pails and shovels.

On this last trip I noticed the beach-theme extended beyond the banks of the Seine, up to the Hotel de Ville, where Parisian sports enthusiasts could partake in a game of sand volleyball.

I enjoyed Paris Plages from afar: admiring the scene from the bridges rather than experiencing the sand between my toes. But it still brings a smile to my face. Such a whimsical scene in the midst of the world's most cosmopolitan city.

Paris Plages lasts about a month, starting shortly after Bastille Day and running through the middle of August (2015 dates are July 19-August 17). If planning a summer vacation to Paris, consider going during this time frame. While the weather may be warm, this unique experience is well worth it.


* This post is a part of the Paris-in-July meme, hosted by Tamara of Thyme-for-Tea. Please visit her website for links to more French-inspired posts.

French Friday: Instilling a love of Paris in the Next Generation

It is no surprise to anyone who knows me well (or perhaps who barely knows me at all) that I adore Paris. It began in second grade when I first started to learn French, and coincidentally, met a young man who had just returned from his Junior Year Abroad.

At the age of eight I knew I would one day visit Paris for myself. To date, I have had the privilege to travel to my favorite city no less than four times:

• as a junior in high school in 1977 
• as a tour leader-in-training in 2006
• as a Parisian wannabe in 2011
• ...and most recently as a group tour leader in 2015. 

With each visit I learn to love something new about the city - and I will always long to return, just one more time.

I hope to instill this love of travel - and Paris specifically - in my granddaughter. And what better way than through books.

Of course, there is the Madeline series. When I visited Paris in 2011, my granddaughter was only  three months old, but I couldn't resist buying this delightful classic in the original language. We also own the English version, a remnant from my youngest's childhood library, so the story is familiar even if the language is not.

The pictures take precedent now - but some day I will read aloud the story in French, and share not only my love of the county, but its speech as well.

Recently I came across another picture book that tells a sweet story within a Parisian setting: Madame Martine by Sarah Brannen.

 Madame Martine lives alone in the 7eme arrondissement, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. She is rather set in her ways and enjoys the same weekly routine: shopping each day for a specific item at the Rue Cler market. Hmmm....I do believe I could be Mme Martine...

She rescues a lost puppy, Max, who teaches her a little spontaneous adventure can be good for the soul.

I am excited to learn there is a second book in the series, Madame Martine Breaks the Rules, which is scheduled to be released in September. This adventure will take her to the Louvre - c'est magnifique!

I discovered a few more picture books that beautifully illustrate the City of Lights, but I have not yet had time to read them. Perhaps you will enjoy checking them out yourself:

• Happy Birthday, Madame Chapeau by Andrea Beaty
• Julia, Child by Kyo Maclear
• Bon Appetit: the Delicious Life of Julia Child by Jesse Hartland
• A Lion in Paris by Beatrice Alemagna
• Lately Lily: The Adventures of a Traveling Girl by Micah Player - an adorable ABC book that I think I need to add to my personal library for future grand-travellers.

Do you know of any other Parisian books I could set aside to read with my four-year-old granddaughter?

* This post is a part of the Paris-in-July meme, hosted by Tamara of Thyme-for-Tea. Please visit her website for links to more French-inspired posts.

Paris in July: Doodling in French

Doodling in French by Anna Corba
Published by: Chronicle Books
Copyright 2012

On a recent "artist date" I discovered this delightful little text at a quaint independent bookshop in Lawrence, Kansas.

Of course the title caught my eye, but a quick flip through the pages convinced me to review it more closely. Once I returned home, I immediately requested a copy from my local library.

I am no artist, but I do harbor dreams of sitting in a local coffee shop or on a park bench and sketching a few observations. Technically this book should help me fulfill that desire.

While only 144 pages, this short little tutorial is divided into seven sections - all reminiscent of the quintessential Parisian life:

• Dans le Jardin
• Le Cafe
• A la Maison
• Les Accessoires
• Bon Voyage
• Tous mes Reves
• Et Maintenant

 Each sketch is shown in simple step-by-step instructions. None of the drawings are terribly complex, but each subject is very French and quite a good likeness.

It certainly seems easy enough....

Just follow the directions, pay attention to scale, and voila ... a perfect sketch of a fond French memory.

Well, that's the idea in theory....

Book directions...

My attempt

In reality, however, my croissant looks like a sickly snail. And my cheese wheel? ...well, who knows.

I must admit my expectations were terribly unrealistic. I thought a few simple lines was, well... simple. A curve here, a triangle there, and in 60 seconds I'd have a sketch of a delectable morsel. But as in any artistic endeavor, the process is far more complex than it seems. It takes time, patience, and practice to develop a new skill, and I was not willing to slow down enough to give it a fair chance.

For now I have decided to devote my time to writing. But someday I plan to purchase this book and j'essayerai encore une fois.


** For other Paris in July posts, please visit Tamara's website, Thyme for Tea.